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Menondering; Wee Toons Big Hairts - part two

On Monday, I introduced you to Portsoy. Here's another of the Moray Firth's fine wee toons.

Less than ten miles west of Portsoy is the town of Cullen. This is where the famous smoked haddock soup called Cullen Skink arose from. Like many of our coastal places, it is built on cliffs and has very steep streets. There is one of the bonniest views as you drive down into the town square and under the old railway bridge. I will revisit Cullen and do the walk that takes one up onto the viaduct... but the purpose of my visit on this occasion was to spend a couple of nights at a newly opened, community-run campervan "aire". It had dawned on the community council that campervans and motorhomes were using ground down by the shore for stopovers. Here was an opportunity for income to the community, with some planning and effort. They raised funds, applied to the county council, and set up a gated area with drinking water and toilet disposal facilities, proper hard standing, and a limit of 13 vehicles for no more than two nights on any given stay. £15/n during July and August, £12 spring and autumn and £10 from Nov to March. It is situated next door to the pet cemetery, something else for which Cullen is famous.


One morning, one of the community council members was there placing a number marker like the one I had for The Grey. They only opened in April and have been solidly booked ever since! This shows the demand for decent and cost-effective parking for tourists and has demonstrated to the naysayers in that community that it brings in money and keeps things tidy. 

Though, to maintain the latter, they could do with providing bins on the site, rather than relying on folk doing the right thing and taking it along to the harbour bin - singular - which was clearly beyond its limit. The committee fellow also mentioned they were thinking of putting in EHU facilities (elec hook up). I suspect that will entail putting prices up, which would mean I would not use the place again. However, I really did enjoy my two nights there. Being able to arrive at midday and stay until 1030h on the day of departure also worked out at two full days, and as the weather was wonderful, I took the chance to get some laundry out...


There was the promise of a lovely shoreline walk out past the cemetery, but that, too, will have to await another visit. I did go to the harbour, though. I got chatting with Colin, a born-and-bred Cullen chap in his 90s who needs a slow walk and long talk. He'd trained at the still-operational Maritime School there, gone off to do his national service "sooth o' the border", returned and never left. He'd been a chandler, mainly for the local fisheries, but latterly for 'the yachting crowd'. 


He'd been thrilled with the aire getting up and going but less enamoured of his new neighbour (frae Newcastle ye ken), who was renovating the house for the purpose of listing on Air B&B. "Ye jus' dinny ken whae ye're gonna wake up tae!"

At the other side of the harbour, Colin took his leave to go up the wee side street to his home. I lingered and watched the lassie collecting cockles and clams.

From the van, I looked across at this... do you see what I see???


I could tell you a lot more about Cullen... but instead, here are photos of the info board beside the cemetery/start of the walk, and you can glean whatever interests you. It is a lovely town that had a bit of heart failure but is doing its best to get healthy again!







12 comments:

  1. I love the two boats and the sail boat with red sail.. they are very appealing to me. sounds like the town is doing a good job of find ways to keep the town going. ha ha on the slow walk with long talk.. that is ME. and Beau of course.
    it is becoming a problem here from all the air b and b homes. we have 3 of them on our streets we walk each morning. they don't effect me, but the people who live on either side are not happy. a steady stream of strangeres, and these homes are huge, 3 BR and baths and most of the time it is 3 cars there also.. I count myself blessed the two rentals on on the side of us and one across the street are yearly lease rentals,

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  2. Looks like a great place to park the Grey for a few days. I love the coastal towns and beautiful views of the water.
    It is sad the pet cemetery closed. Take care, enjoy your day!

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  3. I must confess that in all my days as a world traveller, having visited many of the far flung corners of the planet, I have not heard of, nor have ever tasted Cullen Skink! So, YAM, it has become your responsibility to ensure that this serious omission in my culinary experience is rectified. How you package it and get it to me is up to you but I accept no excuses. You have demonstrated to us all that you are capable of rising to a challenge, so get to it without delay. Miriam will make fresh biscuits that day, I am sure. Hot biscuits and smoked haddock soup. I can hardly wait. Drool is pooling already. Don’t let me down. Ever yours in gastronomic adventure - David

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    Replies
    1. Hari Om
      David, the challenge is beyond me (or any other). Nowhere can I find a victualler providing the service of shipping CS. All that can be done is offer pointers to recipes
      ... which begs the question why my link above mysteriously goes to a historic post and not the link I now provide here... Tsk... I'm sure Miriam will be able to rustle up her own version in no time!! Yxx

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  4. what an interesting place... we cried as we saw the pet cemetery... but it is a sweet idea to have such a place where people can be close to their friends and maybe can meet other people who feel the same...

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  5. YAM what an absolutely lovely post you had mighty fine weather too.
    Thank you for all the info
    Hugs Cecilia

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  6. You find the most amazing spots. But I am not a traveler. We might go to Vancouver next year. That will be in summer. But when do I leave when my garden doesn't need me?!
    Anyway, I have to report that three of three fishies are indoors! Yippee! XX

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  7. The pet cemetery is so sweet and what a shame that it had to close.

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  8. Cullen sounds like another quaint town rich in views and history!

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  9. Great to read about this place, Stay safe. Take care. Greetings

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  10. Pet cemetery might be able to reopen under a new curator.

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  11. What a lovely place to visit. We enjoyed reading all about the towns history.

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