Menokreatikkul; Saturday Stitches

I think I said that there would be a video on sizing hooks... but it's a series of images and words only, because it really doesn't warrant the faff. I will do one on the anatomy of stitches, though.

When we purchase yarn, the labelling usually includes a guide on the size of knitting needle or crochet hook best suited to that yarn, as specified by the manufacturer. HOWEVER... It's not so exact a science! Firstly, because not all yarns, despite their category, are created equal. Secondly, not all hooks are equal. 

Yarns are a whole study of their own, but for now, let's take the "double knitting" yarn I used for these images. When I was growing up, there was single-thread yarn (cobweb/lace weight); then those single threads would be twisted with other threads to create 2-ply, 3-ply, or 4-ply yarn. After that, for heavier, warmer fabrics, knitters of old would work two hanks of 4-ply yarn together; thus, they were 'double knitting' (DK). Eventually, realising a market, manufacturers began spinning for this. While some DK yarns might be described as 8-ply, this isn't always the case, as advances in spinning technology allow for different constructions with the same thickness......except, even that is now a wee bit debatable, as the materials used vary so much. DK in wool is likely to be finer than DK in acrylic (as this is), or combined materials, or the fibres of different animals, such as alpaca or mohair. Hence, the American system of yarn weights was introduced in the late 1990s and is now being used internationally. This allows for variance within each category. The yarn you see here is categorised as a 3-weight (DK). Those threads are quite 'sturdy' and overall, this is at the top range of a 3 and could be considered a light version of 4-weight. 

Why do I tell you all this? This is about the use of hooks to suit the yarn before one. If I used the recommended 4mm hook, the yarn comes out quite tight and, due to being a synthetic material, rather curly. I also found that, due to that 'plushness', the 4mm hook just kept splitting the threads. This can get very tiresome over a larger project. I moved up to a 5mm...

Not quite the same helix effect, but still rather bendy and would need a good bit of blocking on the finished item to straighten it out. Just for a bit more experiment, I recreated the same swatch (single/dc cast on row, single/dc second row, linked double/treble third row) with a 6mm and then a 7mm.

Overall, for drape and feel, the 6mm gave the best result for this particular yarn. A 5.5mm might also be suitable. (I haven't got my full set of hooks in The Grey - yet...)

Yes, I know that all of you in the States use a letter system for your hooks, but I'm pretty sure they all have the metric measurement on them also.

Anyhoo... using the recommended hook, as long as there is no splitting or snagging, is fine, but if you want a more drapey-droppy flow to the finished item, then upping the hook size is perfectly legit. That said, oversizing the hook to the yarn can cause other problems, as the stitch definition starts to break down, and mis-stitching can result.

Back to the hooks themselves. I mentioned that they are not necessarily created equal. Have you ever wondered why there are so many different hook sets made (and bought)?

Well, despite the terminology being 'hook size', it is not actually the hook that is measured! No. Like knitting needles, it is the girth of the shank that counts. Thus, the mm measurement is taken at the point beneath the hook where the tapering ends and the 'handle' starts. Each manufacturer then individualises their item by two things: the handle design, and the hook itself. Take a very close look at the next image. These are both 4mm hooks as measured at the point I have marked with a small line. The business ends, though, are quite different. Can you see it?

First of all, the taper is quite different. The Aero product on the right has a longer, 'slower' taper, while the Milward with the softgrip handle waits a bit, then takes more of a sharp turn into the point. Now, take a closer look at both those points. The available space in that actual hook also differs. This affects the 'gathering'. Recall I was talking about the yarn splitting. This is where it is important to have a variety of makes of hooks. For tension and sizing, one may want to stick to the prescribed sizing, but knowing how the yarn ought to sit in the hook now takes on importance. The following images demonstrate - we start with the Aero 4mm. (Sorry the focus is a tad out - one-handed photography is a challenge!)

I have drawn the line between the taper of the hook and the taper of the shank, and you should immediately notice one thing... the yarn extends beyond that boundary. Even though there would be a bit more tension on the yarn in use, this presents the issue of the hook likely to glide between the fibres and increase the likelihood of splitting and snagging. Now see what happens with the 4mm Milward...

The yarn still fills the entire hook space, but at least does not break the taper boundary. This would be workable, with minimal splitting - however, as I mentioned, when working the swatch, I did find the curl with this particular yarn to be annoying to the point of not wanting to work it. Moving up to the 5mm eased this. Interestingly, although the shank size is up a full point, the hook space is virtually the same as the 4mm. There is just a little more space against the shank, though (biggify further if you need to see that).

If working to a pattern and changing up the hook size (and other than knowing your own natural tension), you may need to do some arithmetic to have the end product you desire. If doing simple, free-size items, such as shawls, scarves, blankets, then there is more leeway. Size up to your heart's content! 

So, all that was to point out that it is the shank of the hooks you use which is the sizing, and hook 'bowls' vary so test out by wrapping the yarn as I've shown - and have at least one or two other makes to test out per the yarn you are using. The yarn should never protrude beyond the taper line, or accept the trouble you bring on yourself.  I'll finish with close-ups of the bowl test on the 6mm and 7mm, which emphasise the point (no pun!) Hope you found this helpful.